Look here for the details of past offerings of our selected wine cases:
Special Simonsig South Africa Case 93 £115.40
2 bottles of sparkling wine: Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2008 Kaapse
Vonkel is the official term in South Africa for a sparkling wine made
in the Traditional or Champagne Method. Simonsig’s has a fine bready
nose with a creamy mousse. Lively floral and citrus aromas, it is a dry
sparkler with bright acidity, soft richness together with yeasty notes
on the palate. A classic blend of Pinot Noir 49%, Chardonnay 45% and
Pinot Meunier 6% givesa great celebratory aperitif or try it with a
seafood barbecue!
2 bottles of white wine: Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Greeny
yellow in colour with green pepper and hints of asparagus on the nose.
Dry with bright acidity and good minerality on the palate completed by a
voluptuous tropical finish. Enjoy this wine on its own or with seafood,
poultry and pasta dishes.
2 bottles of white wine: Simonsig Chardonnay 2009 Apple,
lime and lemon with a hint of spicy oak on the nose. Dry, full bodied
with toasty, creamy oak on the palate balanced by good acidity with a
touch of minerality. Ideal with fish and poultry cooked in cream and
wine sauces, as well as strong, soft cheeses like Camembert.
2 bottles of red wine: Simonsig Pinotage 2007 From
South Africa’s signature grape variety, this red has youthful cherry
crimson in colour with plums and raspberries on the nose. A full bodied
wine with earthy berry fruits, balanced with fine tannins and a gentle
dry finish. Enjoy with seared tuna, mild curries and casseroles,
especially South African bobotie. 2 bottles of red wine: Simonsig Cabernet/Merlot 2009 Vibrant
ruby colour. Lovely flavours of summer red berry fruits with the subtle
wood together with a hint of chocolate. Silky soft tannins create a
smooth finish for this easy drinking wine. Will go well with beef
Carpaccio, meaty pasta dishes as well as barbecued steak.
2 bottles of red wine: Simonsig The SMV 2008 Dense
violet red in colour. This vibrant red from Shiraz, Mourvèdre and
Viognier grapes shows vanilla, cinnamon and coffee on the nose, and is
dry with structured tannins and mulberry red fruits on the palate. Enjoy
with risotto, especially made with wild mushrooms and lightly spiced
dishes.
A
couple of months ago in London I was delighted to catch up with Pieter
Malan, one of the family who runs Simonsig Estate. Our meeting also gave
me the opportunity to taste some of the great wines they produce, which
haven’t been available much in the UK since they parted company with
their English importer a few years ago. Some of you may remember that
Pieter hosted a Simonsig wine dinner in Billericay a few years ago.
Simonsig
was founded in the 17th Century by Jacques Malan, a Huguenot who had
fled France, and is still run by the same family with great skill and
pride. They own 210 hectares at the foothills of the Simonsberg
mountains in Stellenbosch, one of South Africa’s best and most beautiful
wine regions. The growing conditions are excellent as the climate,
though hot, is influenced by breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, and 75% of
rain falls in the winter.
If you would like more information about Simonsig do have a look at their comprehensive website.
3 bottles of white wine: Meinklang Grüner Veltliner 2007 Burgenland Austria With citrus fruits and a touch of white pepper on the nose, this lovely dry wine is made from the Grüner Veltliner grape, fast becoming a cult grape around the world. The flavours are balanced by bright acidity with a touch of minerality. Enjoy this wine with fish dishes, especially salmon, in sauce.
3 bottles of white wine: Pievalta Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore 2008 Le Marche Italy Striking peachy and floral notes with the attractive nutty flavours for which this grape is rightly famous. A vibrant, steely dry wine with refreshing acidity that will be delightful with simply grilled fish, as served in Le Marche on the beaches of the Adriatic coastline.
3 bottles of red wine: Merlot Clos de Barbejo 2007 Vin de Pays d’Oc France Gutsy Merlot from the warm south of France, with great colour and depth of flavour. Concentrated and robust, with flavours of red fruit and blackcurrant rounded off by a long finish. Great with not only roast beef and pork, but pizza and saucy pasta dishes too. 3 bottles of red wine: VOE Adobe Carmenère 2009 Colchagua Valley Chile A particularly delicious red wine made with Carmenère, a grape variety that Chile has made its own. Sweet, ripe, lightly-peppery cherry flavours abound on this medium-bodied wine. Serve with barbecued meat or cheese.
Many more wine producers are embracing the ethics and rules of organic grape growing and wine making. Others take the further step of farming biodynamically: among other activities this involves is using phases of the moon to control when they do what; feeding the soil with manure stuffed in cow horns; and tending the vines with plant preparations. And their wines get better and better – many of them showing a purity of fruit and great quality – as you will discover with this selection!
The first white is from the east of Austria, Burgenland, where the Meinklang family has practised mixed agriculture for generations. They have farmed organically for the last ten years and are now biodynamic. There is a lot of useful information about them and about biodynamics on their website.
Founded in 2000 the Pievalta winery’s sole focus, in Italy’s Le Marche district is on the Verdicchio grape. With two vineyards totalling 29 hectares Pievalta was certified biodynamic in 2005 since when their white wines have shown deeper, more concentrated flavours.
The first red is a full bodied Merlot from the Clos de Barbejo estate, which is the result of the passion of one man, Dominique Giraud, who, over two years, planted 15 hectares on terraces to the east of Beziers, in the heart of the Languedoc. An organic producer, he is highly respected locally.
Another man who is highly thought of is Alvaro Espinoza; not only in Chile but internationally. He persuaded his employers – one of the largest wineries in Chile, to set up an organic wine company which now has more than 300 hectares of vineyards in several regions of Chile. Their wines are always exciting.
This wine is produced in the Colchagua Valley, very near the epicentre of the devastating earthquake which happened in February this year, and I will be supporting the Levantando Chile Fund, a charity that has been set up specifically to help those employed within the Chilean wine industry and their families. If you would like to add more to this worthwhile charity here is their link: Levantando Chile Fund.
Enjoy these carefully made wines, each one reflecting its particular region perfectly.
Special Regional Spain Case £109.75
2 bottles of white wine: Pazo de Monterrey 2008 Monterrei Pale gold in colour with notes of crunchy apples on the nose. A dry, medium-bodied wine with gentle acidity, it is delightfully fresh with a touch of herby fruit. A blend of Treixadura and Godello. Lovely on its own or enjoy with chicken and fish dishes.
2 bottles of white wine: Borsao Seleccion Blanco 2008 Campo de Borja Vivid pale yellow in colour. Aromas of peach with hints of honey. Citrussy and bright on the palate, with pineapple and tropical fruit flavours, though dry. Unoaked, with a long, juicy finish. Made with Macabeo, a local grape variety. Try this with a pork casserole cooked with wine.
2 bottles of white wine: Mas Macia Suprem Blanc 2008 Catalunya A delicious blend of Garnacha Blanca, Xarel-lo (two local varieties) and Chenin Blanc showing ripe white peach, pear and lychee characters. Quite aromatic with lily-like perfume, minerality on the palate and full bodied. Great finesse and a long concentrated finish. Delicious with seafood and wintery salads.
2 bottles of red wine: Gotim Bru 2006 Costers del Segre An attractive, perfumed nose with cherry, toasted red fruit and sweet spice characters. Ripe fruit on the palate is balanced with fresh acidity and supple tannins together with a savoury note. Its fresh, juicy style is appealing and yet it has enough structure and complexity to match with food too. Beef casserole or roast lamb would be dishes to enjoy with this wine.
2 bottles of red wine: Fuenteseca Bobal Syrah 2007 Utiel Requena A great, robust red from Southern Spain. Lots of brambly and cherry fruit on the nose, with with hints of bitter chocolate. The palate is well structured palate, with firm tannins from the Bobal component tempered by the Syrah, giving a burst of fruit on the finish. A tomato based meal or rich vegetarian dish would be a great a match.
2 bottles of red wine: Juan Gil Monastrell - Monastrell 2008 Jumilla A dark, chunky wine. Full of blackberry and plum fruit with hints of vanilla spice and coffee. The palate is warm and rich with layers of lush spicy plum and cherry fruit, with an overlying attractive perfume. Rich, sweet tannins and a touch of chocolate on the finish. 100% Monastrell, hence its name! Enjoy grilled meat with this full bodied wine.
This selection of wines comes from exciting lesser-known Spanish wine regions, where wine production has improved dramatically in the last few years, bringing bottled sunshine for your enjoyment!
The three whites come from the north of Spain: Monterrei (the King’s mountain) is in the white wine kingdom of north-west Spain, immediately across the border from Portugal, where the wines are crisp and fruity. Although Campo de Borja produces mainly red and rosé wines, their whites are fuller bodied with rich, fruity flavours. Catalunya, whose capital is Barcelona, is a large area with scattered vineyards and a general DO (controlled denomination of origin) for all those that don’t fit into the more specific ones such as Penedes.
The first red comes from Costers del Segre, one of Catalonia’s specific DO areas, whose styles are based on intelligent blending of local grapes with recently planted French varieties. Utiel Requena lies inland from Valencia and used to produce basic quality wine; however there has been considerable investment in the vineyards and wineries leading to some great wines being made, especially with Bobal, the local red variety. Further south is Jumilla whose story is similar. The wines here are full and fruity, made with local Monastrell and international Merlot and Syrah.
I am sure you will enjoy these wines from up-and-coming regions of Spain.
1 bottle of sparkling white: Aureus Blanc de Blancs Brut, Cremant de Loire 2002 Loire, France Classicracy biscuity Blanc de Blancs with pure fruit and a dry finish. Verymoreish, utterly refreshing. Made using the 'Méthode Traditionelle'meaning that the wine was made in the same way as Champagne, havingspent time developing finesse and length on its lees in cool chalkcellars for the past 5 years. Perfect as a party or special occasion aperitif; would also go well with smoked salmon, langoustines or lobster.
2 bottles of white: Waterkloof Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Stellenbosch South Africa Structured and fine with attractive mineral notes combining overt fruit to produce an appealing and food friendly wine. Enjoy this wine with smoked salmon and shellfish.
2 bottles of white: Tabali Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2008 Limari Valley Chile Strongcreamy and nutty scent, balanced by high toast oak. Rich andconcentrated, with an interesting lemon curd character. This offers asweet core and a limey minerality wrapped in good quality barrel notes.Great depth of flavour and classy. Should your prefer a white wine with turkey this rich wine will be a delicious match.
2 bottles of red: Waterkloof Circumstance Merlot 2006 Stellenbosch South Africa Denseblack cassis and bramble fruit aromas combined with plums, spice and acreamy oak on the palate. A fine wine with persistence, complexity andgreat purity. This is the red wine to accompany roast turkey.
2 bottles of red: La Reine de l'Arenite, Fleurie, La Madone 2006 Stellenbosch South Africa Perfumed,aromatic and with a notable floral twist of violets. Silky and elegantthroughout the palate with an abundance of blackcurrant and red berryfruits. Serve lightly chilled and serve with roast turkey, lamb or pork.
2 bottles of red: Vega Del Rayo Reserva 2003 Rioja Spain Anintense wine classically designed and crafted. Fruit perfumes of plumsand wild blackberry with hints of dried citrus peel and raisins. Thesweet vanilla and brown spices from ageing in wood are well balanced.Silky and ample on the palate with an elegant finish. Still quitestructured and capable of further ageing. If you should break with tradition and have roast beef or goose for Christmas lunch this would be the ideal wine.
1 HALF bottle of white: Keith Tulloch Botrytis Semillon 2003 Hunter Valley Australia Goldin colour with an intense aroma of apricot, cumquat and honey. Flavoursreflect the nose with an added creme brulée texture offset by lingeringacidity. “Stunning sun-kissed Mediterranean orange notes and more honeythan Winnie the Pooh could ever dream of”, writer Matthew Jukescommented. This is the wine for the Christmas Pudding, or with the Christmas Cake.
Inthe shops, the Christmas lights have been turned on, the decorationsare up and carols are being sung –since the start of November! Althoughwe won’t dress the tree nor ‘deck the halls with boughs of holly’ untila few days before Christmas, I have enjoyed selecting the wines in thisSpecial Christmas Case 90. From fizz to pudding wine there’s a wine tomeet most seasonal needs!
From Chenin Blanc grapes the Loiresparkling wine is made in the same way as Champagne with the addedbonus of having some good bottle age. Raise your glass with thissparkler to toast your guests.
Many of the great wines of Chile are from newly developed wine regions in this lovely country. TheTabali vineyards are in the north, close to the Atacama desert wherethe dry climate helps give this Chardonnay added complexity. If youprefer white with turkey this is your wine.
There are two winesin this case from South Africa, both from the classic region ofStellenbosch: a Sauvignon which will go really well with seafood, anda plummy Merlot which would be the wine to have with turkey..
Twowines are from the Old World. Beaujolais has tarnished its reputationmaking wines that are too simplistic (I can’t help thinking ofBeaujolais Nouveau, whose promotion hasn’t done the area any favours,apart from a quick profit), so it was pleasure to discover a red winefrom a named Beaujolais village, Fleurie, which shows up the truecharacter of the Gamay grape. Enjoy this, slightly chilled, withchicken dishes, or even the leftover turkey on Boxing Day.
Thelast red is a full-bodied, rich Reserva from the classic region ofSpain, Rioja, which may just persuade you to break with tradition androast a goose, or indeed beef, for Christmas lunch!
From Australia is a luscious sweetie which would be great with the Christmas pudding or, indeed, with the Christmas cake.
Ifyou would like to send this case as a gift do contact me as soon aspossible with the details of where to send it as well as a personalmessage, which I can add to the tasting notes that are delivered withthe case. I can also arrange other wines to be sent as a gift, just getin touch.
Thank you for your support of The Wine Maestro WineClub this year. I wish you a very merry Christmas and a happy new year,and I look forward to supplying you with more interesting andindividual wines next year. Click here to join the Wine Club
Bodegas O. Fournier Case 89 £109.80
3 bottles of white: Urban Sauvignon Blanc, O. Fournier 2009 Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina Lovely ripe lime and grapefruit on the nose. These flavours continue on the palate and are finely balanced with bright acidity, offering a rich finish. Enjoy this dry wine with prawns, grilled fish and roast chicken or with the cheese board.
3 bottles of white: Urban Torrontes, O. Fournier 2009 Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina Light gold in colour with hints of pears, flowers and citrus fruit, this dry white has good, zingy acidity with a touch of spicy minerality on the finish. Enjoy this wine young as an aperitif or with lightly smoked meats, seafood or with mild cheeses. Great with spicy and Thai food too.
2 bottles of red: Urban Red Blend, O. Fournier 2008 Maule Valley Chile Made with a blend of Merlot, Carignan, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Dark red with a bouquet of black fruits and spice, it is dry, full of delicious ripe fruit flavours balanced by good tannins. Try this wine with game dishes, such as pheasant, rabbit and venison.
2 bottles of red: Urban Malbec, O. Fournier 2008 Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina The ripe dark berry fruits on the nose seem to match the colour of this characterful wine! There are black fruits galore on the palate too, completed with a fine edge of tannin and crisp acidity. Very typically Malbec, this is the wine for steaks as well as other grilled meats and pasta served with a rich sauce.
2 bottles of red: Urban Ribera, O. Fournier 2006 Ribera del Duero Spain Deeply coloured with violets and cherry on the nose - dry with hints of mulberry and dark chocolate underpinned by ripe tannins. Drinking well now but will keep for another four years. This is the wine for red meats, especially roast beef, though would be good with spicy vegetarian dishes made with pulses for example.
This case is a special treat for you! Spaniard, José Manuel Ortega was a very successful banker who fell head over heels in love with wine, and wanted to make the best wine in different parts of the world. He started his company, O. Fournier, ten years ago and I’ve been fascinated to have watched its progress from its early days.
His first winery, in Argentina, lies beneath the snow-capped Andes at an altitude of almost 1200m above sea level in the beautiful Uco Valley. We visited the brand new winery, like a phoenix rising out of the stony arid soil, which combines the best of old and new technology: above ground, stainless steel, oak vats and gravity feeds; underground, a cellar designed to hold 2,800 oak barrels at a constant temperature and humidity. There is also a hotel and first class restaurant there, embracing modern wine tourism.
O Fournier’s exciting new project in Chile is in its early stages but already has all the signs of being equally as impressive as its highly successful venture in Argentina. Situated in the Maulé valley around 300 kilometers south of Santiago, where the reds will in future be made at a brand new state of the art facility which is built into the ruins of a winery dating back to the 19th century. The aim is to maintain as much of the original winery building as possible while incorporating the latest winemaking technology. Access to 80 year old Carignan vines provides the intensely-flavoured fruit which contributes to the Urban blend, currently made in a nearby winery.
A new winery is also under development for white wine production in the increasingly fashionable region of Leyda in the San Antonio valley west of Santiago. Proximity to the Pacific Ocean provides cooling afternoon breezes creating perfect conditions for the production of the elegant Centauri Sauvignon Blanc.
His third winery is in his home country, Spain (although he and his family now live in Argentina). Located in the premium red wine region of Ribera del Duero it is planted with 60 hectares of Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo), a large proportion of which is of old vines. The remarkable vineyards are situated in a bend of the Duero River; a sheer 15m cliff face separates the fast-flowing river from the edge of the vineyards.
The soil is a combination of sand and large pebble stones reminiscent of Chateauneuf du Pape. This soil type is unique to O Fournier’s estate within the Ribera del Duero region and the vines benefit from extended ripening hours due to the heat retaining qualities of the stones. This, coupled with the 700m altitude of the estate creates huge potential for the production of world class wines.
This case gives you the chance to enjoy these great, individual wines from three different countries but all with a common purpose – quality!
3 bottles of white: Gavi di Gavi Batasiolo 2008 Piemonte Italy Delicate, straw-yellow with hints of green. Soft aroma with scents of fresh fruit; dry with refreshing acidity, well balanced with a long finish. This quite weighty white is great with osso buco, chicken dishes and, interestingly, beef carpaccio.
3 bottles of white: Vermentino di Gallura Cucaione, Piero Mancini 2007 Sardegna Italy Straw yellow with a greenish hue, with lots of aromatic perfume on the nose. Dry, balanced by crisp acidity with nutty notes, this a fine, elegant wine. As befits its seaside origins this is a good match with fish dishes, especially roast fish.
3 bottles of red: Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riparosso Illuminati 2005 Abruzzo Italy Dark ruby with hints of raspberry and cherry on the nose. Bright red fruit on the palate with gentle tannins, completed by a silky texture. Good structure with pleasant cherry tartness on the finish. Enjoy with pasta dishes, especially those with meat or tomato sauce.
3 bottles of red: Salice Salentino, Rivera 2005 Puglia Italy Dense ruby red, the bouquet has hints of dried plums and Morello cherries. Dry, generous with soft tannins, this well structured wine has the pleasant, spicy cherry fruit flavour typical of its grape variety, Negroamaro. A full-bodied red, it would work well with grilled red meat dishes as well as risotto.
After a very enjoyable and educational visit to this lovely country in spring this year I continue to be excited by wines from Italy - from all over Italy. At a trade tasting in June I found an interesting selection of wines for this Special Late Summer Italy Case 88.
Piemonte, in the north west of Italy is better known for its reds, Barolo and Barbaresco for example, but a some fascinating whites are also produced. One of the most important is from the vineyards of Gavi which extend from Novi Ligure to the lower hills of the Ligurian Apennines. The best wine of this region is the elegant Gavi di Gavi; produced exclusively in the village of Gavi itself from Cortese grapes, the Dogliani family have been involved with winemaking at Beni di Batasiolo for many generations.
The other white is from Gallura, a peninsula on the northeast corner of Sardinia that specialises in growing Vermentino (the grape is also grown on the coast of mainland Italy, on Corsica and in the south of France under the name Rolle). Piero Mancini produces a very fresh and forward wine; made with no oak or malolactic fermentation, in stainless steel tanks to emphasise the herbal aromas.
A mountainous region on the ‘calf’ of Italy, on the Adriatic Abruzzo is the fifth largest producer of wine in Italy and a lot of its wine used to make its way into Chianti! Today, this practice is of course, outlawed and the local red variety, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, has to stand on its own merits. Your first red does just that: from the small area called Riparosso, it is produced by the the largest privately owned winery in the region, by the Illuminati family.
The second red is from another southern region, Puglia, which used to send most of its grapes north for vermouth production. With the decline in that market they have concentrated on improving the quality of their wines. Salice Salentino is from the extreme south of the Puglia region made by one of the best producers, Rivera using a blend of traditional red varieties: 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera.
I am sure that you will enjoy this selection of wines as you explore the fascinating regions of Italy.
2 bottles of white: Yealands Pinot Gris 2008 Marlborough New Zealand Spicy
fruit and nuts on the nose, dry with refreshing acidity, mouth filling
with hints of lychee and pears on the palate. This style of wine goes
really well with gently spiced Asian food, especially Thai curry dishes.
2 bottles of white: Domaine Nicolas Girard Menetou Salon 2007 Loire France A
touch of gooseberries on the nose with a dry, fruity palate balanced by
refreshing acidity and good minerality. Goat’s cheese is made for this
wine or how about a lovely summer pea and mint risotto?
2 bottles of rosé: Viña Chocalan Syrah/Petit Verdot Rosé 2008 Maipo Valley Chile Dry, well balanced with plenty of red fruit flavours. Enjoy on its own or with barbecued king prawns or lightly dressed salads.
2 bottles of red: Alpha Zeta ‘V’ Valpolicella 2008 Veneto Italy
Wonderfully vibrant and damsony fruit that gives way to a fleshy,
rounded character. Dry, light and refreshing with good acidity. Try
this red, lightly chilled, with pasta cooked with tomato sauce or
bruschetta with extra virgin olive oil.
2 bottles of red: Delta Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough New Zealand Cherry
and violet on the nose – very typical of good Pinot Noir – with lots of
silky, juicy fruit as well as good minerality. Drink now or will keep
for a year or two. Enjoy this wine with poached salmon or braised lamb
and couscous.
2 bottles of red: Abadia Retuerta Rivola 2006 Ribera del Duero Spain Intense
black cherries with some coffee and liquorice on the nose. The
expressive palate combines the blackcurrant of Cabernet (40%) with the
ripe strawberry flavours of Tempranillo (60%) along with a touch of
vanilla and spice from the 12 months’ oak aging. Skewers of lamb,
courgettes and aubergines cooked on the barbecue or grilled squid will
go so well with this wine.
The
sun is shining and it’s warm; strange really because this is Wimbledon
fortnight and they will be hoping for rain so that they can show off
their new roof for Centre Court... However, in anticipation of good
weather in the forthcoming weeks the wines in the Special Summer Style
Case 87 have been specially selected to provide summer enjoyment with a
touch of style.
Two of the wines are from Marlborough in the
South Island of New Zealand. The Pinot Gris white is produced by
Yealands in the Awatare Valley sub-zone which is developing a
reputation for particularly flavourful wines. The Delta Pinot Noir is
from a farm dating back to 1848. It was purchased in 2000 by a group of
winemakers specifically to plant Pinot Noir and show how well it can
perform in this southern part of Marlborough.
The second white
is from the Central Vineyards of the Loire Valley. Menetou Salon is
close to the illustrious Sancerre appellation (indeed the producer
Nicolas Girard helps his family with their vineyard there). Also
growing Sauvignon and using a similar winemaking style, it is renowned
for fresh and food-friendly wines.
For the rosé I selected a
wine from Chile’s Maipo Valley. Here the vineyards lie between the
Pacific ocean and the Andes allowing the vines to benefit from both the
heat of the warm days and the cool breezes at night. This special
climate allows for a longer ripening period and gives fruity wines with
a stylish elegance.
Valpolicella from the shores of Lake Garda
in North-East Italy is a delicious summer red and best enjoyed slightly
chilled which emphasises its delightful sour cherry fruit. The final
red in this case epitomises the stylishness of Spanish wine: from an
immaculate vineyard in Ribera del Duero to the east of Rioja, this
blend of Spanish and French grape varieties will enthral you!
3 bottles of white: Novas Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Casablanca Pale yellow with a grassy, gooseberry nose, dry on the palate with refreshing acidity with hints of ripe gooseberry and pear. Enjoy with sushi, goats cheese and salads, such as Caesar Salad.
3 bottles of white: Novas Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne 2007 Casablanca The bouquet full of aromas of apricots and jasmine precedes an elegant, dry wine with a juicy, fruity palate with good minerality and a touch of buttery oak completed with a long finish. Lovely with salmon, grilled shellfish or seafood salad. Do try this wine, too, with Brie, Camembert and soft blue cheeses.
3 bottles of red: Novas Carmenere/Cabernet 2006 Colchagua Deep in colour with black fruits and a touch of oak on the nose. Blackberry and plums on the palate balanced with rich, round tannins. This elegant wine is just right for casseroles, roast lamb and steaks.
3 bottles of red: Novas Winemaker’s Selection Syrah/Mourvedre 2005 Central Valley Deep plummy red colour with red berries on the nose. Dry and concentrated with good, but not intrusive, tannins with the merest touch of raspberry enhancing its richness. Just the wine for hearty, well seasoned dishes such as roast duck or barbecued food.
My notes for this case:
At the importer's tasting earlier this year I was delighted to renew my acquaintance with the Emiliana Orgánico wines from Chile, especially their Novas range which are in the Special Chile Organic Case 86.
Emiliana Orgánico is the most prominent organic and biodynamic estate in Chile. Alvaro Espinoza is an inspired winemaker and a few years ago he persuaded his employers to plant organic vineyards, which they did in a very grand style, now owning 448 hectares in the Maipo, Colchagua and Casablanca valleys where their grapes thrive in the pure air and almost-perfect vinegrowing conditions.
Organic agriculture management is based on two concepts: biodiversity and the absence of agrochemicals such as pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers.
Biodiversity consists of eliminating the monocultures stimulating the development and coexistence of different species within the same physical space or habitat.
Pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers are replaced by products of natural and biological origins, such as those based on copper, nitrogen, potassium and sulphur. Compost is produced from grape skins and stems, vegetable residues and animal manure. Weeds are controlled mechanically, as well as by animals that feed on them, such as goats, alpaca, geese and chickens. Special grasses and leguminous plants like alfalfa and clover are grown which contribute nitrogen into the soil.
All of this encourages the vines' roots to grow deep into the earth extracting nourishment and nutrients which are characteristic and inherent of that exclusive terroir. The result is fruit of high quality giving wines that express aromas and flavours that reflect the unique characteristics and properties of the terroir where they come from.
This is a selection of delicious wines – wines that are very expressive and wines with which to welcome the barbecue summer!
Special Independent French Wine Growers' Case 85 £113.80
2 bottles of white: Château Haut-Genestat Blanc 2006 Bordeaux A crisp, dry and fruity white made from Sauvignon Blanc, with aromas of gooseberries and cut nettles. The palate is well balanced, with good mineral qualities. Great with seafood.
1 bottle of white: Apremont, Philippe Ravier 2007 Savoie Attractive
floral notes on the nose entice you into this gentle dry white with
good minerality made with the local Jacquère grape variety. Enjoy this
wine as an aperitif or why not stay local and have with a cheese fondue?
1 bottle of white: Abymes, Philippe Ravier 2007 Savoie Gentle
lemon and lilac blossom on the nose; dry white with hints of melon and
bright acidity. Because it is just off dry and light in alcohol, this
wine will go well with aromatic Asian dishes.
2 bottles of white: Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Domaine du Jas 2007 Attractive
hints of ripe pears on the nose, this is a dry wine from a blend of
southern grape varieties. Good freshness and plump flavours completed
by a long finish. Chicken and pork dishes will be a good accompaniment.
2 bottles of red: Château Haut-Genestat 2006 Bordeaux Soft
unoaked claret that is full of bright, red fruit flavours.
Concentrated and beautifully structured, showing finesse and
blackcurrant fruit. Lamb dishes would be delicious with this wine.
2 bottles of red: Comté de Grignan, Domaine du Jas 2007 Vins de Pays Comté de Grignan Well
structured with flavours of ripe red fruits and soft tannins. Made with
100% Carignan, a local variety, it will be great with beef dishes -
grilled or casseroled.
2 bottles of red: Jours de Vigne, Domaine de Cabazan 2007 Languedoc Ruby
colour with loads of red fruits on the nose; dry, good acidity with a
hint of tannin, this is a lovely, juicy, fruity wine made with 100%
Syrah. Drink with salami and other charcuterie as well as pork sausages.
My notes for this case:
Spring
is in the air, as you can see in the picture accompanying the details
of the Special Independent French Wine Growers' Case 85. The photo was
taken in the Savoie region of eastern France where a couple of the
wines are from in the case. Made with Jacquère, a local grape variety,
the Abymes and Apremont used to be easily sold in the ski resorts above
the region. Possibly too easily, as some of the quality wasn’t that
exciting. But it’s an area where the younger generation are making
great improvements and that’s the case with the wines from the Ravier
family now that the son is involved.
And this is the theme of
the case as all the wines are made by young, keen winemakers, some of
them in their own family’s wineries, other starting with new wineries
and vineyards. All are from small wine estates, run independently too.
The
two wines from Bordeaux are made at his own property by Vincent
Despagne of the eponymous family who own various estates in the region,
but who has decided to ‘go it alone’.
Domaine du Jas in the
Rhône Valley, and Domaine de Cabazan in the Languedoc are each managed
by a couple of young men: one partner looking after the vineyard, the
other the winemaking. Hard working and dedicated they came to London to
show their wines at the end of last year, and I was very impressed.
As
ever I’ve made suggestions of food to go with the wines, but these
new-style wines are ultra-flexible too – I’m sure when you taste the
wines you will be impressed by their quality and style.
Aromatic
lemony fruit on the nose, this dry wine is balanced by good acidity,
completed by a long finish. Enjoy with classic Italian dishes:
spaghetti with clams, pasta with bottarga (tuna roe) as well as other
fish dishes.
Grecanico is a relation of the Veneto’s Garganega
and grown primarily in Sicily. A late ripener it produces wines with
bright acidity.
3 bottles of white: Fiano 2007 Mandrarossa
Attractive
gold in colour, there are tropical fruits on the nose which continue on
the palate with some minerality and balancing acidity. Medium bodied
the finish is crisp. Lovely on its own as an aperitif or match it with
oily fish or full flavoured poultry dishes.
Fiano is one of southern Italy’s most famous white varieties.
3 bottles of red: Nero d’Avola 2007 Mandrarossa
Gorgeous
richly textured, elegant red wine with layers of damson and plum as
well as hints of liquorice on the palate. Just the wine to accompany
winter casseroles, game and rich pasta dishes.
Nero d’Avola is
possibly the most important red variety in Sicily. It used to have a
rather poor reputation but today it is used to give balanced fruity
wines with ripe tannins.
3 bottles of red: Syrah 2006 Mandrarossa
Full
bodied with a heady perfume of hedgerow fruit and peppery spice. This
well structured wine pairs well with spicy beef and spicy stir-fry
dishes.
Syrah has a great affinity with Sicily, especially with careful vine growing and wine making methods.
My notes for this case:
As you look outside and wonder whether the council will have enough salt to clear the roads and the pavements at least you will be able to enjoy some warm, bottled sunshine in the wines of our Special Sicily Case 84. The Greeks first planted vines in Sicily in the 5th century BC and it was from this southern island that vines spread to mainland Italy. Wine has always been produced there, but especially during the 35 years or so from the 1960s, when the emphasis was on quantity it was of rather dubious quality. It wasn't until the late 1990s that new vineyards were planted at higher altitudes and older vineyards replanted with better vines and improved training systems. Since then, more care has been taken with lower yields and improved winemaking techniques. Indeed, for those who find it hard to believe that a leopard can change its spots, you simply need to look at Cantine Settesoli, today one of Europe's most important wine co-operatives. Once famous only for the sheer quantity of wine it produced, this forward thinking Cantine is now one of the most impressive, quality driven wineries in Sicily. I have regularly tasted their wines over the years, noticing improvements all the time. The Mandrarossa wines are particularly enjoyable; in many cases using local grape varieties, they are made for early drinking. To illustrate the care and skill the co-operative takes, "the wines", it says, "are sourced from dedicated vineyards using a computer-mapped traceability system. This analyses sugar development, tannin ripeness and acidity levels throughout the growing season in order to ensure optimum quality at picking". I am sure you will be impressed with the quality of these wines and with their ability to put the wintry weather to the back of your mind!
Special Christmas Case 83 £116.80
2 bottles of white: Sauvignon Blanc, The Spice Route Wine Company 2007 Darling South Africa Pale greenish tinge in colour, the nose is distinctly aromatic with fresh cut grass, green pepper and hints of tropical fruits. The palate is medium bodied and dry, packed with ripe gooseberry and lime fruits with hints of lychee and a crisp, mineral freshness which lifts the middle palate and keeps the finish lengthy and elegant. This versatile white is refreshing on its own but will also complement canapés, entrées or white fish dishes. Its ripe fruit component makes it perfect as a foil to lightly spiced, Eastern influenced cuisine.
This wine is produced by a winery run by the great South African winemaker Charles Back who set up the Spice Route vineyard in the late 1990s. Situated in the Western Cape to take advantage of the cooling winds from the Atlantic, the region, Darling, has nothing to do with the Chancellor!
3 bottles of white: Macon Blanc Uchizy, Cave Talmard 2006 Burgundy France Plump, creamy and uncomplicated by oak this nicely developed wine is full of character and clean fruit. Dry with concentrated, ripe fruit flavours. If you prefer white to red with turkey this Macon is the one! Enjoy it, too, with fish and chicken dishes cooked in sauce.
An old favourite – this Mâcon is drinking really well at the moment. Keep a bottle chilled ready to welcome the unexpected guest...
1 bottle of rosé Domaine Grand Guilhem Rosé 2007 Corbières France Almost pale red in colour, with hints of roses and violets as well as red fruits on the nose. On the palate it is dry, aromatic, lively and balanced with good acidity and a very pleasant, refreshing finish. Try this wine with salad first courses as well as cold roast turkey or beef. This is the first of two wines from small, young producers in the dynamic Languedoc region.
1 bottle of red: Demoiselle Claire, Domaine de Cabazan 2007 Languedoc France Deep red with a youthful purple rim. Lots of concentrated red fruit on the nose with smoky notes, the palate continues with intense flavours and robust tannins. The power of Syrah (60%) is blended with the plummy Merlot (40%) to produce a very classy deep, fruity wine which would be just the match for turkey. Another exciting wine from the Languedoc.
2 bottles of red: Merlot Veneto, Le Vigne 2007 Veneto Italy Elegant and velvety with soft rounded ripe plum fruit flavours and supple tannins. This exciting Merlot is bursting with flavours of cherries, almond, herbs and spice, yet is wonderfully well rounded and elegant. Enjoy this wine with turkey, roast on Christmas Day or lightly curried on Boxing Day!
1 bottle of red: Arbois Terre Rouge, Domaine de la Pinte 1999 Jura France Red-brown in colour, emblematic of its maturity, the bouquet starts with hints of leather quickly followed by red fruits and spice. Dry, with good acidity, with smoky fruity notes balanced by fine ripe tannins completed by a long finish. Duck is a fine dish to enjoy with this mature wine (think old red Burgundy) as well as other game dishes. A blend of three grape varieties, Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau, the last two traditional varieties of the Jura.
The Jura, in the east of France, is one of those areas that have unique styles of wine (Vin Jaune is a prime example) and unusual grape varieties. Their reds have a certain charm, and when mature the enjoyment is dramatically increased. The 1999 red from Domaine de la Pinte, made by the exotically moustachioed Philippe Chatillon.
1 bottle of red: Southern Flinders Shiraz, Garden Series, Peter Lehmann 2003 Barossa Australia A deliciously rich middle palate, with a wonderful mélange of dark chocolate, spicy deep fruit, and liquorice swirling through. Its exuberance is reined in by fine-grained tannins and beautifully integrated oak. A superbly balanced Shiraz of great structure and tautness. A perfect choice for roast goose or beef, hearty rich casseroles and a great partner with mature cheddar.
Made by Peter Lehmann (whose face graces the label), the man who put Australia’s Barossa Valley on the map.
1 bottle of sparkling white: Clairette de Die Tradition, Poulet nv Clairette de Die France Made from a blend of Muscat and Clairette grapes, this semi-sweet sparkling wine, astonishingly succulent and vibrant, with forward fresh fruit flavours and a ripe grapey character. Beautifully clean and refreshing, you can serve it chilled as an aperitif or as versatile partner to Christmas cake, mince pies, fruit salad or walnuts.
Clairette de Die, on the easterly mountainous edges of the Rhône region. This unique, softly sparkling wine is made by an ancient method and is pleasantly low in alcohol. Made by the Poulet family this wine, however, isn’t right with chicken!
My notes for this case:
On this frosty morning I am warming myself thinking of the delicious wines in the Special Christmas Case 83. It is an eclectic selection for this season of convivial hospitality, good cheer and fine food. The Sauvignon (great with smoked salmon) is produced by a winery run by the great South African winemaker Charles Back who set up the Spice Route vineyard in the late 1990s. Situated in the Western Cape to take advantage of the cooling winds from the Atlantic, the region, Darling, has nothing to do with the Chancellor! An old favourite – the white Mâcon Uchizy 2006 is drinking really well at the moment and will be just the wine to accompany the roast turkey. Keep a bottle chilled ready to welcome the unexpected guest... There are two wines from small, young producers in the dynamic Languedoc region: the Corbières rosé is dry and will go well with salads and other cold first courses, and the red Domaine de Cabazan must have been made to go with roast beef. If you prefer a red wine with roast turkey you will enjoy the spicy, fruity notes of the Italian Merlot or, if you’re having goose, the big, robust Southern Flinders Shiraz. Made by Peter Lehmann, he is the man who put Australia’s Barossa Valley on the map. Now for a couple of treats: I am always excited by good producers, especially those in lesser known wine regions of France. The Jura, in the east of France, is one of those areas that have unique styles of wine (Vin Jaune is a prime example) and unusual grape varieties. Their reds have a certain charm, and when mature the enjoyment is dramatically increased. The 1999 red from Domaine de la Pinte, made by the exotically moustachioed Philippe Chatillon, would be delicious with game. The other delight, and the last wine in the case, is from another small area, Clairette de Die, on the easterly mountainous edges of the Rhône region. This unique, softly sparkling wine is made by an ancient method and is pleasantly low in alcohol. Made by the Poulet family, this wine isn’t right with chicken, better as an aperitif or with Christmas cake!
Special Southern French Case 82 £93.55 October 2008
3 bottles of white: Domaine de Vedilhan Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays d'Oc Gooseberry and limes on the nose, more typical of the Loire than the Languedoc. Dry, crisp and refreshing with an attractive minerality – great as an aperitif or to accompany oysters, lobster and other shellfish.
3 bottles of white: Domaine de Vedilhan Viognier 2007 Vin de Pays d'Oc Appealing aromas of ripe pears and peaches, very typical of Viognier, merge with a twist of Turkish Delight and these exotic flavours reappear on the palate. Dry, bright acidity with a long, elegant finish, you will enjoy this wine with Thai and other gently spiced dishes.
3 bottles of red La Chapelle du Marin, Domaine Lou Devet 2006 Côtes du Rhône Deeply coloured with an intense tarry nose and lots of smoky, blackberry fruit on the palate. Made with 100% Syrah, this wine was matured in oak for 12 months. The wine for autumn: goes well with robust casseroles and chilli con carne.
3 bottles of red: Le Fou Pinot Noir 2007 Vin de Pays de l’Aude Lovely sweet berry fruit on the nose of this unoaked wine. On the palate there is a fruity richness and it is dry with just a hint of tannin. This delicious wine is best served slightly chilled and will accompany a variety of dishes: duck and feathered game, salmon as well as griddled tuna.
My notes for this case:
The days are shortening dramatically but the trees have been giving us a fine autumnal display - just the occasion for some vinous sunshine in the Special Southern France Case 82. Three of the wines are from the Languedoc. With the advent of railways in the mid 19th century this very large, warm vineyard region in the south east of France became the producer of nearly half the production of the country as it became possible to transport wine all over France.
At that time, the wine produced was nearly all vin ordinaire, and when French wine consumption started to decline 20 years ago and EU subsidies were reduced, there had to be radical changes: either wine producers had to improve their winemaking or grub up their vines for good. Many have taken up the challenge by improving vineyard management, replanting better varieties of vine, cleaning up their cellars and, importantly, reducing yields. The three Languedoc wines in this case are fine examples of the great improvements that have been made.
The second red is from the Rhône Valley, a region I am passionate about. From the southern Rhône, unusually, it is from 100% Syrah from just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape and made by the 4th generation of the same winemaking family. It was awarded a Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge.
The sunny southern Rhône Valley and the Languedoc are great places for a holiday combining historical and cultural visits with fabulous countryside and great food and wine excursions. To plan a private wine tour for 2009 there’s nothing better than using the independent on-line guides at Wine Travel Guides. Various annual subscription options are available and can be given as Gifts too. Wine Maestro club members are eligible for a 20-30% discount off the normal subscription price: simply use the code D2WM08 by the 31st January 2009. Just enter the code on the subscription or gifts page after you’ve registered for the free sample.
By the way, the Languedoc takes its name from a time when its inhabitants spoke Occitan, the language in which oc is the word for 'yes', hence langue d'oc. Which may explain why there are a lot of positive wine producers there…
Special Late Summer Organic Case 81 £108.60 September 2008
2 bottles of white: Cantine Bricco IGT Sicilia Inzolia Bricco al Sole 2006 Sicily, Italy A very fresh dry white from Sicily which shows the top-quality Inzolia grape, one of the classic local varieties, at its very best. Dry, medium bodied, and full of fruit, it is made without oak ageing, and is a great white to drink by itself straight out of the fridge or to enjoy with light dishes.
2 bottles of white: Albet i Noya Penedès Xarel.lo Clàssic 2007 Penedès, Spain An elegant white with pure lemon fruits and racy acidity. Every aspect of the winemaking here has been with a keen eye on retaining the vivacious character of the Xarel.lo grape, which is one of the trio of varieties used to make Cava – the famous Spanish sparkler. This delicious still wine will be a good match for seafood and other fish dishes. Made by a winery that is widely regarded to be one of the best producers in the region, for both sparkling wines and still.
2 bottles of white: Pajot Côtes de Gascogne Blanc 2007 Gascogny, France Light gold in colour, with youthful green hints. Very fresh and lively on the nose, with zesty lemon lime notes and a mineral hint. On the palate, it’s vivacious, with youthful, bright fruit plus a hint of grapefruit and white pepper balanced by a clean, lemony freshness lasting through to the finish. Try this wine with scallops and other shellfish.
2 bottles of red Pignard Cru Beaujolais Morgon 2005 Beaujolais, France Morgon is considered to be one of the very finest Beaujolais crus. This expressive cherry-scented red has an attractive floral edge and not a scrap of oak - it has really intense fruit, characteristic of a classic Beaujolais cru. As the wine matures it will take on a more Pinot Noir character, an attribute of Morgon wines that leads to the term ‘il morgonne’. Enjoy with roast pork or, try it with lamb tagine.
2 bottles of red: Emiliana Orgánico Carmenère 2005 Colchagua Valley, Chile Intense dark red colour with purple hues and lots of fruit on the nose: full of cherries, plums and spicy pepper. This expressive full bodied wine ends with flavourful tannins and a long persistent finish. An outstanding Carmenère, which is,the product of a real commitment to organic viticulture. Serve with grilled meat or cheese.
2 bottles of red: Ijalba La Rioja Graciano 2004 Rioja, Spain With intense and well balanced acidity and fruit, this red is elegant but full-bodied. A versatile red, it can match well with strong and spicy meals, red meat or venison as well as firm-textured fish like sea bream, tuna or cod, grilled or in a sauce; you could even try it with a vegetable risotto.
I have been following the development of organic wines with great interest over the years; learning and understanding the reasons why winemakers should go to all the extra trouble and effort that it involves, and enjoying the products of their hard and dedicated work. I am sure you will enjoy this selection.
The first white is from Sicily: made with a grape variety, Inzolia, which is pretty well unique to that part of Italy. From north east Spain, Penedès is a dry white wine made from one of the three grape varieties that are used to make Cava, Xarel.lo (pronounced ‘sharello’). I’ve always found wines made from this grape have a lot of character.
From Armagnac country, in south west France, is a Côtes de Gascogne Blanc from four grape varieties. Wine maker Darrien Barreau prefers to concentrate his efforts in always making blends rather than single varietal wines. Also from France, the first red is a Morgon: one of the best cru villages of Beaujolais, winemaker Roland Pignard shows what can be achieved with Gamay. And it will age well too.
Another fine and committed winemaker is Alvaro Espinoza who is in charge of the most prominent organic and biodynamic estate in Chile: Emiliana Orgánico. With extensive vineyards in the Maipo, Colchagua and Casablanca valleys their grapes thrive in the pure air and almost-perfect vinegrowing conditions. Carmenère used to be grown in Bordeaux but is now a variety that the Chileans have made their own.
Lastly an unusual single variety red from the the innovative Viña Ijalba, the very first organic estate in Rioja, certified organic in 1994. Less than 1% of total plantings in Rioja are Graciano which may be to do with the fact that it's tricky to grow and gives very low yields. However, it can deliver wines of exceptional quality and Ijalba was the first to make a single varietal Rioja from Graciano in 1995. Recently it was voted one of Spain's 'Top 100 wines'.
At an organic wine seminar I attended a few years ago the presenter was asked if it was true that one never gets a hangover from drinking too much organic wine. “Unfortunately not”, was her reply, “but you do get a better class of hangover…!”
Special Midsummer Case 80 £109.80 July 2008
2 bottles of white: Sauvignon Blanc Isonzo I Feudi di Romans, Lorenzon 2007 Friuli, Italy Straw-yellow in colour with greenish tones, this wine has a wonderfully balanced varietal expression, hints of gooseberries and blackcurrants mingling with stone fruit, all lifted by good acidity on the finish. Just the wine for grilled fish and potted shrimps.
2 bottles of white: 'Castle Label' Riesling, Schloss Vollrads 2007 Rheingau, Germany Bright and light in colour, with fresh, floral perfumes on the nose. Clean and racy, with light citrus and crisp apple notes on the palate, finishing with a lemon/lime twist. Gorgeous on its own, or with lightly spiced Asian dishes.
2 bottles of white: 'Lois' Kamptal Grüner Veltliner Loimer 2007 Kamptal, Austria Light gold in colour, with youthful green hints. Very fresh and lively on the nose, with zesty lemon lime notes and a mineral hint. On the palate, it’s vivacious, with youthful, fresh fruit plus a hint of grapefruit and white pepper balanced by a clean, lemony freshness lasting through to the finish. Try this wine with scallops and other shellfish.
2 bottles of rosé: Fairview Rosé 2007 Paarl, South Africa Vibrant pink in colour, the nose is bursting with perfumes of ripe summer berries which follow through to the fresh, juicy palate and clean, crisp dry fruit. Just right as an aperitif this lovely fresh rosé will accompany salads, seafood and charcuterie.
2 bottles of red: California Series Pinot Noir, De Loach 2006 California, USA This pretty, ruby-coloured wine has light acidity and a soft tannin structure. Delectable flavours of strawberry and rhubarb with notes of vanilla and smoke evolve on the palate culminating in a long smooth finish. Great with salmon, tuna (yes, you can drink light reds with fish!) or roast duck.
2 bottles of red: Valpolicella Allegrini 2007 Veneto, Italy Bright, youthful cherry-red in colour, with open perfumes of ripe, slightly spiced cherries, the characteristic bouquet of good young Valpolicella. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, with sweet, ripe fruit flavours which bolster the juicy, fresh acidity and soft, rounded tannins. Good with barbecued pork kebabs, and pasta with a mushroom sauce.
Ever the optimist, I have chosen six wines for the Special Midsummer Case 80 to accompany the sunny weather that is bound to arrive very soon! The wines from Europe and the New World will provide refreshment as well as being a good match for the lighter summer dishes and barbecue meals.
The I Feudi di Romans property is located in the heart of the Isonzo DOC zone, in the far north east of Italy, Friuli Venezia Giulia. Mainly whites are produced in this cooler region and the Sauvignon in this case is a fine example.
About eight years ago I visited the long established Schloss Vollrads wine estate in the heart of the Rheingau, Germany. Growing only Riesling, their winemaker Dr. Rowald Hepp produces wines of outstanding finesse. Having just returned from a short visit to Germany I can confirm that this country is a source of delicious wines!
Variety and individuality are the hallmarks of Austria’s wine-producing regions. The vineyards, for the most part, lie in the east and southeast of the country and the production is 70% white and 30% red wine. Fred Loimer manages to get lovely definition and zest into his wines and his ‘Lois’ is from Grüner Veltliner (Austria’s principal white grape variety) fermented solely in stainless steel.
An old favourite, the Fairview Rosé is from a South African estate, whose vineyards were first planted in 1699, and which is now run by the inspirational winemaker Charles Back. A fruity blend of Shiraz and Gamay, this the quintessential summer wine.
The first red is from the Veneto in north east Italy. The Allegrini Valpolicella (not allowed to be called Classico as it has a screwcap, although all the other DOC criteria have been met) is produced on their old family estate, using the local red grape varieties. Light in tannin this red would be delightful served slightly chilled.
The final wine is from California. On the first Sunday of our trip there earlier this year we joined the throng of people (some in limos!) touring the vineyards in the Russian River area and one of the wineries we visited was De Loach. They have always specialized in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, and are now owned by Burgundy producer Boisset. The wine in this case is made with selected fruit from cooler parts of the Central Coast where the coastal fog and cool evenings create the perfect environment for extended ripening.
Special Northern Spain Case 77 £96.75 February 2008 2 bottles of white: Lovivalvo 2006, Rueda Very fresh and clean. Dry with good citrus fruit and some real verve on the palate. A blend of 85% Verdejo and 15% Viura. Enjoy as an aperitif or with shellfish.
2 bottles of white: Bouza Grande, Condado 2005, Rias Baixas Tropical pineapple, passion fruit and pink grapefruit dominate at the centre with distinct leafy, herbal notes woven throughout. Dry, this is not a simple Albarino, as it shows good weight of fruit, texture and significant acidity at the finish. Lovely with fish stews and herby chicken dishes.
2 bottles of rosé: Etim Rosat, Falset-Marca 2006, Montsant Quite deep and powerful for rosé with real weight, balance, and acidity. The palate is refreshing and juicy with the barest hint of tannin supporting the juicy, ripe red berry notes. Try this with grilled vegetables or duck breast.
2 bottles of red: Fariña Tinta de Toro 2006, Toro Juicy, unoaked red with soft, plummy, mulberry fruit and subtle hints of spice. Smooth, medium-bodied and ripe with delicious weight of fruit and a long finish. Grilled lamb cutlets would be delicious with this unoaked wine.
2 bottles of red: Señorio de Sarria Viñedo Tempranillo 2001, Navarra Bright and intense colour with a concentrated, ripe berry nose. Long and silky on the palate with touches of treacle and dark black fruit. Good tannic backbone. Very drinkable. Perfect with grilled meats and stews.
2 bottles of red: Mas Macia 2004, Catalunya Warm, rich blackberry nose with good weight of fruit. An intriguingly spicy and thoroughly quaffable red wine made from 90% Carinena and 10% Merlot grapes. Just the wine to accompany a steak.
‘Sum up Spain? Easier to map the movements of a beehive’, is an apposite quote from the latest edition of Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson’s The World Atlas of Wine.
I’ve loved Spain since my youth, starting with holidays on what was then a relatively unspoilt Costa Brava, later hitchhiking round the country, and since then visiting many cities and wine regions including one trip as the prize for the Best Spanish Wine List Award at Webber’s Wine Bar.
From this country of changes and contrasts, Spanish wine has improved dramatically in the last few years; areas that just produced very ordinary wine have been replanted with better grape varieties and, with careful husbandry, reduced yields and correct winemaking are now offering very good wines.
The wines in this case are from Rias Baixas in the northwest, across to Catalunya and Montsant in the northeast stopping at Rueda, Toro and Navarra en route.
Click here to join the Wine ClubBack to top of page Special Christmas Case 76 £99.75 December 2007 1 bottle of white wine: Champagne Albert de Milly Brut nv, France Fresh and fruity on the nose with hints of plum, raspberry, dried flowers, brioche and honey. On the palate the same notes of strawberries and raspberries, and yeasty fresh brioche, with a lemony finish. 2 bottles of white wine: Peacock Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Stellenbosch, South Africa This powerful, pure and intense Sauvignon Blanc shows a combination of ripe-green and tropical fruit. It is full bodied and shows freshness on the palate, typical of this grape variety.
3 bottles of white wine: Macon Blanc Uchizy, Cave Talmard 2006, Burgundy, France From a modest father-and-son domaine in the AOC Maconnais village of Uchizy comes this Chardonnay full of crisp, boisterous appley fruit with a rounded buttery texture. The style of wine produced here is pure and refreshing, achieved by early picking of ripe grapes whilst they still have good levels of acidity and fermentation using stainless steel only.
2 bottles of red wine: Terrazze della Luna Trentino Merlot 2006, Trentino, Italy Sourced from high altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Dolomites in northern Trentino, an area that gives fresh, unoaked wines with real concentration and purity of flavour. This example has a deep ruby red colour with violet hues that will turn to brick red with age; clean, pleasant nose, moderately fruity with slightly green notes; dry and balanced on the palate, with good structure and elegant body. Enjoy with chicken liver risotto or roast turkey.
2 bottles of red wine: Château de Balan 2005, Bordeaux, France Very stylish, typically Bordeaux with good fruit on the nose, and hints of blackcurrants on the palate too. Good class with some tannins evident but perfectly ready to drink. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, this petit château is a real find.
1 bottle of red wine: Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Les Coteaux Schisteux 2003, Rhône, France A classic Rhône wine sporting structure and finesse. Intense notes of vanilla, black cherry fruit and spice on the nose, together with rich morello cherry and chocolate flavours on the palate, this wine makes a wonderful match for hearty meat dishes and casseroles.
1 bottle of red wine: Krohn Rio Torto Reserva nv, Port, Portugal Deep red colour; opulent, rich plummy fruit with surprising depth of flavour expressing pure, youthful and high quality fruit. This port was bottled unfiltered so may form a fine sediment. Best served after a meal with mature hard cheeses or try it with dessert or cakes made from almonds, chestnuts, chocolate or red fruits.
Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without Champagne! I’ve chosen one from a fine, small producer – it will be ideal as an aperitif before Christmas lunch or to drink while you are opening the presents!
The South African Sauvignon will go very well with a first course of, say, smoked salmon, and the Mâcon Uchizy, a familiar favourite for many of you, will be delicious with the roast turkey. The first red is a Merlot from the excellent Trentino Ca’vit cooperative in north east Italy. Merlot has turned into a classic grape variety for this delightful part of Italy. This red will also go well with turkey, but if you are having goose, it would be even better.
For those with more traditional tastes there are a couple of bottles of claret. Château Balan is a small property which is working very hard to produce increasingly good wines and this Bordeaux is quite a find. Some of Bordeaux’s best wine value is to be found at these conscientious petits châteaux. A treat, and just the wine for roast beef (for those of you who aren’t so traditional!), is the Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret (the village name Séguret is allowed to be added to the Villages title as it is one of the Rhône villages which produce wines better than the norm). Made in the hot 2003 vintage, this is an intense, full bodied and very classy wine.
To round off your meal, and this case, is a bottle of Port. Lighter than a Vintage Port it is rich and fruity – just the wine to enjoy with the Morecambe and Wise Christmas Special…
Click here to join the Wine ClubBack to top of page ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Special Autumn Case 75 £96.70 October 2007 3 bottles of white wine: Tinpot Hut Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand Thewine has lovely depth and intensity and a Sauvignon pungency that isleavened by an attractive mineral character on both the nose andpalate. Accompanies fish, shellfish and chicken dishes.
3 bottles of white wine: Vesevo Sannio Falanghina 2006, Avellino, Italy Brightand light in colour, it is scented and fresh on the nose, with perfumesof honey and apple. On the palate, it is fresh with pure fruitflavours. Good length with an attractive perfume continuing through tothe finish. Lovely with pasta prepared with fish. Gold Medal Decanter World Wine Awards 2007
3 bottles of red wine: Cantine Leonardo Chianti 2006, Tuscany, Italy Clear,ruby-red in colour, with perfumes of cherries and fresh red fruitmingled with spicy, peppery notes. The wine is lively and fresh in themouth, with soft, rounded tannins. Good intensity, attractive structureand fine, long length. Just the wine for lamb.
3 bottles of red wine: Côtes du Rhône Rouge Parallèle 45, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006, Rhône, France Gooddepth of dark, ruby colour, with an open, spicy red fruit nose. On thepalate the wine is bursting with fruit, with a good balance between ofripe, juicy fruit and rounded tannins. Enjoy this wine with a goodvegetable risotto or roast beef.
The first white Vesevo Sannio Falanghina, a Gold Medal winner at the 2007 Decanter Magazine World Wine Awards, comes from Campania. Inland from Naples it is one of Italy’s most up-and-coming wine producing areas and despite being so far south, this region is one of the last in Italy to harvest. The vineyards are situated at between 450 and 700 metres above sea level, and are subject to a constant cool breeze that blows off the Bay of Naples. This same breeze has, over the centuries, blown volcanic ash from Vesuvius inland to give the soil here a poor, volcanic character. In fact, the name Vesevo is the old name for Vesuvius.
There is an interesting connection with the other white in this case: Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand is made by Fiona Turner assisted by Matt Thomson who is also involved with winemaking in Italy. A good, forward thinking cooperative in Tuscany makes the Cantine Leonardo Chianti – I have always enjoyed their style of wine and think that the 2006 is particularly good.
When I visited the Rhône earlier this year I was very impressed by the new ‘cellars’, called Vineum, of Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Situated near the little town of Châteauneuf-sur-Isère the ‘cellars’ are in fact tunnels and galleries quarried by the Romans, converted four years ago by the new owners of Jaboulet into their barrel ageing cellars. Well worth a visit, they are indicative of the considerable expense and effort of the new owners, the Frey family who are re-establishing Paul Jaboulet Aîné as a prime producer of Rhône wines, as you will find in the other red in this case, their Côtes du Rhône Rouge Parallèle 45. Click here to join the Wine ClubBack to top of page ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Special Fairview, Paarl, South Africa Case 74 £95.75 August 2007
3 bottles of white wine: Fairview Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Pungent aromas of white grapefruit, lime skin, gooseberry and minerals. Then concentrated and supple in the mouth, with good weight. Ripe, dry with a fresh, clean acidity and long finish. It’s the wine for goats’ cheese (after all they make fine goats’ cheese at Fairview!) as well as fish and chicken dishes, especially cooked in herb sauce.
3 bottles of rosé wine: Fairview Rosé 2006 Pungent aromas of white grapefruit, lime skin, gooseberry and minerals. Then concentrated and supple in the mouth, with good weight. Ripe, dry with a fresh, clean acidity and long finish. It’s the wine for goats’ cheese (after all they make fine goats’ cheese at Fairview!) as well as fish and chicken dishes, especially cooked in herb sauce.
3 bottles of red wine: Goats do Roam in Villages Red 2005 An innovative blend of rich, spicy Shiraz and Pinotage, the 2005 vintage is still very young, with the fruit characters to the fore. Dark and spicy on the nose, with delicious ripe fruit on the palate - the Shiraz adds spice and the Pinotage a cool elegance. Duck, mushrooms and barbecued meats would be ideal with this special wine.
3 bottles of red wine: Fairview Mourvedre 2004 Deep crimson red in colour, the 2004 Mourvedre is showing some maturity, with warm, earthy-spice aromas. It has lovely, ripe berry fruit on the palate, balanced by firm, spicy backbone of tannin and a long, warm finish. Barbecued lamb, steak and aubergine as well as robust casseroles are dishes to enjoy with this wine.
My notes for the Fairview, Paarl, South Africa Case 74
Fairview is run by a delightful man, Charles Back: unassuming and modest he has done as much as any South African winemaker to produce excellent quality and good value wines from grapes grown in the areas most suitable for their style.
Situated on the lower slopes of Mount Paarl, which is more sheltered from the moderating maritime influence than nearby Stellenbosch, Fairview has been planted with vines since 1699, when it was known by the name of Bloemkwoolfontein (Cauliflower Mountain). Fortunately, its name was changed to Fairview by an English owner at the beginning of the 20th century. The property was bought by the grandfather of current owner, Charles Back, in 1937, and was subsequently run by his father, Cyril. Charles has run it for the past 25 years.
One of the keys to Charles Back’s vision was to break free of the predominant estate model for quality South African wines and he has become a pioneer in matching grape varieties to specific sites. Owning vineyards in Stellenbosch, Darling and the Swartland, Charles has access to a wide range of climates and soils from which to forge his wines. He’s also made a shift away from the typical South African focus on Bordeaux red varieties towards those of the Rhône Valley, which he thinks are better suited to the Cape’s various terroirs.
Sourcing quality grapes from various vineyards around Paarl and Malmesbury a blend of Shiraz, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvedre with a dash of Pinotage was created with superb drinkability. When it came to naming the wine, Charles Back's sense of humour took over, and the Goats do Roam label was born. Some say it is a friendly jibe at a certain well known French wine growing region, though Charles himself denies this - even if he does so with a glint in his eyes. The legend goes that some errant members of Fairview's long-established goat herd, supplier of milk for Fairview's internationally award-winning cheeses, escaped from their paddock. The little group happily roamed among the vineyards, showing rare discernment by selecting the ripest berries off some of the choicest vines...
3 bottles of white: Francis Ford Coppola Bianco Pinot Grigio, California, USA 2006 Pale straw in colour with a floral, melon bouquet. Dry, light and crisp with flavours of peaches and pink grapefruit. Great on its own or with a Caesar salad, chicken or goat’s cheese salad.
2 bottles of white: Casa Marin Cartagena Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio, Chile 2005 Lots of citrus aromas with a hint of mint and herbs. Dry with good acidity and minerality with touches of gooseberry completed by a long finish. Just the wine for grilled fish and chicken dishes.
2 bottles of rosé: Andes Peak Syrah Rosé, Rapel, Chile 2007 Lovely ruby pink colour with aromas of red fruits and pomegranate with a hint of rose petal. Gently dry, with good fruit backed up by delicate acidity. Chill well and enjoy on its own or with paella and light tapas dishes.
3 bottles of red: Francis Ford Coppola Rosso Classico, California, USA 2005 Garnet in colour this wine entices you in with sweet red fruits and vanilla on the nose. Dry with gentle tannins the palate is spicy and supple. A blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Cabernet. Enjoy with barbecued meats as well as pasta or pizza.
2 bottles of red: Tabali Reserve Shiraz, Limari Valley, Chile 2006 Intense ruby, with violet tinges. On the nose a mix of red berries and white pepper and on the palate the wine is full-bodied and well structured, with tannins providing the backbone yet which are in harmony with the black fruit and crisp acidity. A fine wine with real class. Ideal with rich stews, game and red meat, especially steak - barbecued steak!
My notes for the Pacific Coast Case 79
Earlier this year we travelled to California and whilst my partner attended the Wine Writers’ Symposium in the heart of the Napa Valley I went off to explore the wineries with the Wine Maestro Club in mind.
Since I was last in this part of the USA about sixteen years ago there have been terrific changes in the wine areas of Napa and other parts of California. There has been enormous investment in the California wine business and it certainly shows with grand wineries and large vineyards. As I travelled around and visited many wineries the old adage often came to mind: “How do you make a small fortune in the wine business?” Answer: “Start with a big one”.
We’d also visited the beautiful country of Chile a couple of years ago, where I was delighted to learn lots more about the great winemaking talent there as well as discovering some delicious wines.
The film director, Francis Ford Coppola, has been a wine producer since he bought the Inglenook Estate in Napa Valley in 1975 (the winery is now called Rubicon Estate). In the late 1990s he bought another winery further north in Geyserville, Sonoma County where he produces the two wines featured in this case. Coppola has a real passion to produce seriously drinkable wines and is proud to show his name on the labels.
Three wines from different wineries and regions showcase Chile. Maria Luz Marin produces very classy cool-climate wines from her vineyards, Casa Marin only a few miles from the Pacific coast; further north near the Atacama Desert, Tabali makes wines in the exciting Limari Valley, a region enjoying unprecedented success. Finally, our Emiliana rosé from Rapel reveals Chile’s famous purity of fruit.
Welcome summer with this selection of great wines from the West coast of the Americas!
Special Easter French Case 78 £97.85 March 2008
3 bottles of white: Domaine Roc de Châteauvieux Touraine Sauvignon 2007, Loire A crisp, zesty Sauvignon Blanc with real nettle characteristics on the nose. Excellent as an aperitif, with oysters, poached fish and pork dishes.
3 bottles of white: La Masquerade Vermentino 2006, Languedoc An ancient Languedoc variety, Vermentino is intensely aromatic, reminiscent of white lilac or lilies. The palate has a lovely soft, creamy texture with good length, weight and power in the finish. Simply cooked fish and pasta with a pesto sauce will go well with this dry wine.
3 bottles of red: Domaine du Clos du Chapitre, Le Trêve, Juliénas 2006, Beaujolais Intense ruby colours and an aromatic nose flirting between flowers and fruit: peony, wild strawberries and raspberries. A harmonious full bodied Cru Beaujolais. Great with turkey and grilled fish, such as salmon or tuna.
3 bottles of red: Domaine la Haute Marone, Gigondas 2004, Rhône Deep in colour with a bouquet full of dark fruit with spicy notes. A classic Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, the palate is rich with morello cherry and cinnamon characters, it is a red which is not at all overpowering as it has had no oak ageing. Try this with a beef casserole or a good Lancashire cheese.
The first white is made from one of the two classic Loire grape varieties, Sauvignon Blanc. From a small producer near Tours this wine shows similar characteristics to its more illustrious (and more expensive) neighbours, Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. The other white wine is from the south-east of France and is made with an old Languedoc variety, Vermentino, also well known in Italy.
The two reds are from southern France: a Cru Beaujolais, Juliénas, showing just what good winemaking can do in an area whose reputation is improving. The second is also from a village apellation, this time Gigondas, a hearty red from the southern Rhône.
Special Northern Spain Case 77 £96.75 February 2008
2 bottles of white: Lovivalvo 2006, Rueda Very fresh and clean. Dry with good citrus fruit and some real verve on the palate. A blend of 85% Verdejo and 15% Viura. Enjoy as an aperitif or with shellfish.
2 bottles of white: Bouza Grande, Condado 2005, Rias Baixas Tropical pineapple, passion fruit and pink grapefruit dominate at the centre with distinct leafy, herbal notes woven throughout. Dry, this is not a simple Albarino, as it shows good weight of fruit, texture and significant acidity at the finish. Lovely with fish stews and herby chicken dishes.
2 bottles of rosé: Etim Rosat, Falset-Marca 2006, Montsant Quite deep and powerful for rosé with real weight, balance, and acidity. The palate is refreshing and juicy with the barest hint of tannin supporting the juicy, ripe red berry notes. Try this with grilled vegetables or duck breast.
2 bottles of red: Fariña Tinta de Toro 2006, Toro Juicy, unoaked red with soft, plummy, mulberry fruit and subtle hints of spice. Smooth, medium-bodied and ripe with delicious weight of fruit and a long finish. Grilled lamb cutlets would be delicious with this unoaked wine.
2 bottles of red: Señorio de Sarria Viñedo Tempranillo 2001, Navarra Bright and intense colour with a concentrated, ripe berry nose. Long and silky on the palate with touches of treacle and dark black fruit. Good tannic backbone. Very drinkable. Perfect with grilled meats and stews.
2 bottles of red: Mas Macia 2004, Catalunya Warm, rich blackberry nose with good weight of fruit. An intriguingly spicy and thoroughly quaffable red wine made from 90% Carinena and 10% Merlot grapes. Just the wine to accompany a steak.
‘Sum up Spain? Easier to map the movements of a beehive’, is an apposite quote from the latest edition of Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson’s The World Atlas of Wine.
I’ve loved Spain since my youth, starting with holidays on what was then a relatively unspoilt Costa Brava, later hitchhiking round the country, and since then visiting many cities and wine regions including one trip as the prize for the Best Spanish Wine List Award at Webber’s Wine Bar.
From this country of changes and contrasts, Spanish wine has improved dramatically in the last few years; areas that just produced very ordinary wine have been replanted with better grape varieties and, with careful husbandry, reduced yields and correct winemaking are now offering very good wines.
The wines in this case are from Rias Baixas in the northwest, across to Catalunya and Montsant in the northeast stopping at Rueda, Toro and Navarra en route.
1 bottle of white wine: Champagne Albert de Milly Brut nv, France Fresh and fruity on the nose with hints of plum, raspberry, dried flowers, brioche and honey. On the palate the same notes of strawberries and raspberries, and yeasty fresh brioche, with a lemony finish. 2 bottles of white wine: Peacock Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Stellenbosch, South Africa This powerful, pure and intense Sauvignon Blanc shows a combination of ripe-green and tropical fruit. It is full bodied and shows freshness on the palate, typical of this grape variety.
3 bottles of white wine: Macon Blanc Uchizy, Cave Talmard 2006, Burgundy, France From a modest father-and-son domaine in the AOC Maconnais village of Uchizy comes this Chardonnay full of crisp, boisterous appley fruit with a rounded buttery texture. The style of wine produced here is pure and refreshing, achieved by early picking of ripe grapes whilst they still have good levels of acidity and fermentation using stainless steel only.
2 bottles of red wine: Terrazze della Luna Trentino Merlot 2006, Trentino, Italy Sourced from high altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Dolomites in northern Trentino, an area that gives fresh, unoaked wines with real concentration and purity of flavour. This example has a deep ruby red colour with violet hues that will turn to brick red with age; clean, pleasant nose, moderately fruity with slightly green notes; dry and balanced on the palate, with good structure and elegant body. Enjoy with chicken liver risotto or roast turkey.
2 bottles of red wine: Château de Balan 2005, Bordeaux, France Very stylish, typically Bordeaux with good fruit on the nose, and hints of blackcurrants on the palate too. Good class with some tannins evident but perfectly ready to drink. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, this petit château is a real find.
1 bottle of red wine: Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Les Coteaux Schisteux 2003, Rhône, France A classic Rhône wine sporting structure and finesse. Intense notes of vanilla, black cherry fruit and spice on the nose, together with rich morello cherry and chocolate flavours on the palate, this wine makes a wonderful match for hearty meat dishes and casseroles.
1 bottle of red wine: Krohn Rio Torto Reserva nv, Port, Portugal Deep red colour; opulent, rich plummy fruit with surprising depth of flavour expressing pure, youthful and high quality fruit. This port was bottled unfiltered so may form a fine sediment. Best served after a meal with mature hard cheeses or try it with dessert or cakes made from almonds, chestnuts, chocolate or red fruits.
Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without Champagne! I’ve chosen one from a fine, small producer – it will be ideal as an aperitif before Christmas lunch or to drink while you are opening the presents!
The South African Sauvignon will go very well with a first course of, say, smoked salmon, and the Mâcon Uchizy, a familiar favourite for many of you, will be delicious with the roast turkey. The first red is a Merlot from the excellent Trentino Ca’vit cooperative in north east Italy. Merlot has turned into a classic grape variety for this delightful part of Italy. This red will also go well with turkey, but if you are having goose, it would be even better.
For those with more traditional tastes there are a couple of bottles of claret. Château Balan is a small property which is working very hard to produce increasingly good wines and this Bordeaux is quite a find. Some of Bordeaux’s best wine value is to be found at these conscientious petits châteaux. A treat, and just the wine for roast beef (for those of you who aren’t so traditional!), is the Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret (the village name Séguret is allowed to be added to the Villages title as it is one of the Rhône villages which produce wines better than the norm). Made in the hot 2003 vintage, this is an intense, full bodied and very classy wine.
To round off your meal, and this case, is a bottle of Port. Lighter than a Vintage Port it is rich and fruity – just the wine to enjoy with the Morecambe and Wise Christmas Special…
3 bottles of white wine: Tinpot Hut Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand The
wine has lovely depth and intensity and a Sauvignon pungency that is
leavened by an attractive mineral character on both the nose and
palate. Accompanies fish, shellfish and chicken dishes.
3 bottles of white wine: Vesevo Sannio Falanghina 2006, Avellino, Italy Bright
and light in colour, it is scented and fresh on the nose, with perfumes
of honey and apple. On the palate, it is fresh with pure fruit
flavours. Good length with an attractive perfume continuing through to
the finish. Lovely with pasta prepared with fish. Gold Medal Decanter World Wine Awards 2007
3 bottles of red wine: Cantine Leonardo Chianti 2006, Tuscany, Italy Clear,
ruby-red in colour, with perfumes of cherries and fresh red fruit
mingled with spicy, peppery notes. The wine is lively and fresh in the
mouth, with soft, rounded tannins. Good intensity, attractive structure
and fine, long length. Just the wine for lamb.
3 bottles of red wine: Côtes du Rhône Rouge Parallèle 45, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2006, Rhône, France Good
depth of dark, ruby colour, with an open, spicy red fruit nose. On the
palate the wine is bursting with fruit, with a good balance between of
ripe, juicy fruit and rounded tannins. Enjoy this wine with a good
vegetable risotto or roast beef.
The first white Vesevo Sannio Falanghina, a Gold Medal winner at the 2007 Decanter Magazine World Wine Awards, comes from Campania. Inland from Naples it is one of Italy’s most up-and-coming wine producing areas and despite being so far south, this region is one of the last in Italy to harvest. The vineyards are situated at between 450 and 700 metres above sea level, and are subject to a constant cool breeze that blows off the Bay of Naples. This same breeze has, over the centuries, blown volcanic ash from Vesuvius inland to give the soil here a poor, volcanic character. In fact, the name Vesevo is the old name for Vesuvius.
There is an interesting connection with the other white in this case: Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand is made by Fiona Turner assisted by Matt Thomson who is also involved with winemaking in Italy. A good, forward thinking cooperative in Tuscany makes the Cantine Leonardo Chianti – I have always enjoyed their style of wine and think that the 2006 is particularly good.
When I visited the Rhône earlier this year I was very impressed by the new ‘cellars’, called Vineum, of Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Situated near the little town of Châteauneuf-sur-Isère the ‘cellars’ are in fact tunnels and galleries quarried by the Romans, converted four years ago by the new owners of Jaboulet into their barrel ageing cellars. Well worth a visit, they are indicative of the considerable expense and effort of the new owners, the Frey family who are re-establishing Paul Jaboulet Aîné as a prime producer of Rhône wines, as you will find in the other red in this case, their Côtes du Rhône Rouge Parallèle 45.
3 bottles of white wine: Fairview Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Pungent aromas of white grapefruit, lime skin, gooseberry and minerals. Then concentrated and supple in the mouth, with good weight. Ripe, dry with a fresh, clean acidity and long finish. It’s the wine for goats’ cheese (after all they make fine goats’ cheese at Fairview!) as well as fish and chicken dishes, especially cooked in herb sauce.
3 bottles of rosé wine: Fairview Rosé 2006 Pungent aromas of white grapefruit, lime skin, gooseberry and minerals. Then concentrated and supple in the mouth, with good weight. Ripe, dry with a fresh, clean acidity and long finish. It’s the wine for goats’ cheese (after all they make fine goats’ cheese at Fairview!) as well as fish and chicken dishes, especially cooked in herb sauce.
3 bottles of red wine: Goats do Roam in Villages Red 2005 An innovative blend of rich, spicy Shiraz and Pinotage, the 2005 vintage is still very young, with the fruit characters to the fore. Dark and spicy on the nose, with delicious ripe fruit on the palate - the Shiraz adds spice and the Pinotage a cool elegance. Duck, mushrooms and barbecued meats would be ideal with this special wine.
3 bottles of red wine: Fairview Mourvedre 2004 Deep crimson red in colour, the 2004 Mourvedre is showing some maturity, with warm, earthy-spice aromas. It has lovely, ripe berry fruit on the palate, balanced by firm, spicy backbone of tannin and a long, warm finish. Barbecued lamb, steak and aubergine as well as robust casseroles are dishes to enjoy with this wine.
Fairview is run by a delightful man, Charles Back: unassuming and modest he has done as much as any South African winemaker to produce excellent quality and good value wines from grapes grown in the areas most suitable for their style.
Situated on the lower slopes of Mount Paarl, which is more sheltered from the moderating maritime influence than nearby Stellenbosch, Fairview has been planted with vines since 1699, when it was known by the name of Bloemkwoolfontein (Cauliflower Mountain). Fortunately, its name was changed to Fairview by an English owner at the beginning of the 20th century. The property was bought by the grandfather of current owner, Charles Back, in 1937, and was subsequently run by his father, Cyril. Charles has run it for the past 25 years.
One of the keys to Charles Back’s vision was to break free of the predominant estate model for quality South African wines and he has become a pioneer in matching grape varieties to specific sites. Owning vineyards in Stellenbosch, Darling and the Swartland, Charles has access to a wide range of climates and soils from which to forge his wines. He’s also made a shift away from the typical South African focus on Bordeaux red varieties towards those of the Rhône Valley, which he thinks are better suited to the Cape’s various terroirs.
Sourcing quality grapes from various vineyards around Paarl and Malmesbury a blend of Shiraz, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvedre with a dash of Pinotage was created with superb drinkability. When it came to naming the wine, Charles Back's sense of humour took over, and the Goats do Roam label was born. Some say it is a friendly jibe at a certain well known French wine growing region, though Charles himself denies this - even if he does so with a glint in his eyes. The legend goes that some errant members of Fairview's long-established goat herd, supplier of milk for Fairview's internationally award-winning cheeses, escaped from their paddock. The little group happily roamed among the vineyards, showing rare discernment by selecting the ripest berries off some of the choicest vines...
Special Simonsig South Africa Case 93 £115.40
Special Spring Organic Case 92 £118.95
The first white Vesevo Sannio Falanghina, a Gold Medal winner at the 2007 Decanter Magazine World Wine Awards, comes from Campania. Inland from Naples it is one of Italy’s most up-and-coming wine producing areas and despite being so far south, this region is one of the last in Italy to harvest. The vineyards are situated at between 450 and 700 metres above sea level, and are subject to a constant cool breeze that blows off the Bay of Naples. This same breeze has, over the centuries, blown volcanic ash from Vesuvius inland to give the soil here a poor, volcanic character. In fact, the name Vesevo is the old name for Vesuvius.
When I visited the Rhône earlier this year I was very impressed by the new ‘cellars’, called Vineum, of Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Situated near the little town of Châteauneuf-sur-Isère the ‘cellars’ are in fact tunnels and galleries quarried by the Romans, converted four years ago by the new owners of Jaboulet into their barrel ageing cellars. Well worth a visit, they are indicative of the considerable expense and effort of the new owners, the Frey family who are re-establishing Paul Jaboulet Aîné as a prime producer of Rhône wines, as you will find in the other red in this case, their Côtes du Rhône Rouge Parallèle 45.
Fairview is run by a delightful man, Charles Back: unassuming and modest he has done as much as any South African winemaker to produce excellent quality and good value wines from grapes grown in the areas most suitable for their style.
Sourcing quality grapes from various vineyards around Paarl and Malmesbury a blend of Shiraz, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvedre with a dash of Pinotage was created with superb drinkability. When it came to naming the wine, Charles Back's sense of humour took over, and the Goats do Roam label was born. Some say it is a friendly jibe at a certain well known French wine growing region, though Charles himself denies this - even if he does so with a glint in his eyes. The legend goes that some errant members of Fairview's long-established goat herd, supplier of milk for Fairview's internationally award-winning cheeses, escaped from their paddock. The little group happily roamed among the vineyards, showing rare discernment by selecting the ripest berries off some of the choicest vines...